hair and nails?

Part 1: Hair Fundamentals: Anatomy, Physiology and Varieties

1.1 Hair anatomy: from follicle to tip

The hair, it would seem, is a simple structure, in fact is a complex system consisting of several key elements. Understanding these components is necessary for proper care and solving problems associated with hair.

• Hair follicle: This is the “root” of the hair located in the dermis (the second layer of the skin). It is a bag in which the hair is formed and grows. The depth of the follicle varies depending on the type of skin and area of the body.

• Hair onion (Bulb): Expanded lower part of the follicle. In the bulb are cells that are actively divided and formed of hair. It also contains melanocytes, cells responsible for the production of a melanin pigment that determines the color of the hair.

• Dermal papilla: Located at the base of the bulb and is a small structure containing blood vessels and nerves. It provides nutrition and regulation of hair growth. Damage to the dermal papilla can lead to the cessation of hair growth.

• Matrix: Actively dividing cells inside the bulb that form the structure of the hair. They are responsible for the synthesis of keratin, the main protein that makes up the hair.

• Sebaceous iron: Located next to the follicle and emits skin lard (sebum), an oily substance that moisturizes the hair and scalp. Excessive secretion of sebum can lead to fatty hair, and insufficient to dryness.

• Sweat glands: Located in the dermis and release sweat that helps adjust body temperature. Sweat can also affect the condition of the hair, making it more wet and sticky.

• Arrector pili muscle): A small muscle attached to the follicle. When it contracts, the hair rises, forming “goose skin”. This muscle can also contribute to the release of skin fat from the sebaceous gland.

• Hair rod (Hair Shaft): The visible part of the hair protruding above the surface of the skin. It consists of three layers: cuticles, bark and core (not always present).

  • Cuticle: The outer layer consisting of overlapping scales similar to tiles on the roof. The cuticle protects the hair from damage and determines its luster and smoothness. The damaged cuticle leads to dullness and brittle hair.
  • Cortex (Cortex): The main part of the hair containing keratin and melanin. It determines the strength, elasticity and hair color.
  • Core (medulla): The most inner layer, which is not in all hair (is more common in thick hair). Its function is not completely understandable, but it is believed that it affects the thermal insulation and strength of the hair.

1.2 Physiology of hair growth: life cycle

Hair growth is a cyclic process consisting of three main phases:

• Anagen (growth phase): The longest phase that can last from 2 to 7 years. During this phase, the hair is actively growing at a speed of about 1-1.5 cm per month. The duration of the anagen determines the length that the hair can reach. For different people, the duration of the anagen is different.
• Katagen (transition phase): A short phase that lasts about 2-3 weeks. During this phase, hair growth slows down, and the follicle begins to contract.
• Telogen (Phase Salm): It lasts about 3 months. During this phase, the hair does not grow and remains in the follicle until it pushes new hair, starting to grow in the anagen phase. At the end of the heterogene, the hair falls out.

At each point in time, about 85-90% of the hair are in the anagen phase, 1-2% in the catagen phase and 10-15% in the heterogene phase. It is considered normal to fall from 50 to 100 hair per day. Violation of the hair growth cycle can lead to hair loss (alopecia).

1.3 varieties of hair: types, structure, porosity

Hair is of different types, each of which requires special care. The main hair characteristics:

• Type of hair: It is determined by the shape of the hair follicle and the amount of the secreted skin fat.

  • Straight hair: They have a round follicle and easily slide over the scalp, which leads to a uniform distribution of sebum.
  • Wavy hair: They have an oval follicle and form light waves or bends.
  • Curly hair: They have an elliptical or flattened follicle and form curls or curls.
  • Very curly hair (Afro): They have a very flattened follicle and form tight curls or spirals.

• Hair structure: It is determined by the thickness of a separate hair.

  • Thin hair: Easily damaged and confused.
  • Medium hair: More durable and less susceptible to damage.
  • Thick hair: The most durable and thick, but can be tough and difficult to lay down.

• Hair porosity: It is determined by the ability of the hair to absorb and retain moisture. Depends on the condition of the cuticle.

  • Low porosity: The cuticle is tightly closed, which complicates the penetration of moisture. Hair dries for a long time and is difficult to color.
  • Average porosity: The cuticle is slightly ajar, which allows the hair to easily absorb and retain moisture. This is the most balanced type of hair.
  • High porosity: The cuticle is greatly ajar or damaged, which allows the hair to absorb moisture very quickly, but also quickly lose it. The hair is often dry, brittle and prone to damage.

1.4 Factors affecting hair health:

Many factors affect the health and appearance of the hair:

• Genetics: A genetic predisposition plays an important role in determining the type, structure and color of the hair. Also affects the tendency to hair loss.

• Age: With age, the hair becomes thinner, less pigmented (gray) and more dry. The hair growth cycle also slows down.

• Nutrition: A balanced diet, rich in vitamins, minerals and proteins, is necessary for healthy hair growth. The deficiency of nutrients can lead to hair loss, brittleness and dullness.

• Hormonal background: Hormonal changes, such as pregnancy, childbirth, menopause and thyroid diseases, can significantly affect hair health.

• Stress: Chronic stress can lead to hair loss (heterogene alopecia).

• Medications: Some drugs can cause hair loss as a side effect.

• Diseases: Some diseases of the scalp, such as seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis, can affect hair health.

• External factors:

  • Sun: Ultraviolet radiation damages the cuticle of hair, making it dry, brittle and faded.
  • Heat treatment: Frequent use of a hairdryer, ironing and curling iron damages the structure of the hair and leads to dryness and brittleness.
  • Chemical processing: Coloring, lightening, chemical curls and hair straightening damage the hair structure and can lead to their fragility and loss.
  • Incorrect care: The use of aggressive shampoos, combing wet hair, tight hairstyles and frequent washing of the head can damage hair.
  • Environmental pollution: Contaminated air and water can accumulate on the hair and scalp, leading to their dryness and irritation.
  • Hard water: Hard water contains minerals that can accumulate on the hair, making them dull and hard.

Part 2: Hair care: from washing to laying

2.1 selection of shampoo: select the product by type of hair

The correct choice of shampoo is the basis of healthy hair care. Shampoo should effectively cleanse the scalp and hair of pollution, surplus sebum and residues for styling, without drying or irritating them.

• For oily hair: Choose shampoos marked “for oily hair” or “for daily use.” They usually contain soft cleansing components, such as sulfates (in moderation) or their soft analogues (for example, cokoglucoside, decilglucoside). Avoid shampoos with oils and silicones that can be burdened with hair.
• For dry hair: Choose shampoos with moisturizing and nutrient components such as oils (argan, coconut, olive), glycerin, panthenol, silk proteins. Avoid shampoos with aggressive sulfates (for example, SLS, Sles), which can even more dry hair. Pay attention to shampoos marked “for dry and damaged hair” or “moisturizing”.
• For normal hair: You can use shampoos with a moderate cleansing effect. It is important that the shampoo does not overdry the hair, but also does not leave a feeling of fat content.
• For dyed hair: Choose shampoos specially designed for dyed hair. They contain components that help maintain color, protect the hair from damage and moisturize it. Avoid shampoos with sulfates that can wash off the paint.
• For thin hair: Choose shampoos that give volume and do not weight your hair. Look for shampoos with proteins and amino acids that strengthen the hair. Avoid shampoos with a large number of oils and silicones.
• For curly hair: Choose shampoos without sulfates (or with soft sulfates) and silicones. They should contain moisturizing and nutrient components that help maintain the moisture and elasticity of curls.
• For sensitive scalp: Choose hypoallergenic shampoos without fragrances, dyes and aggressive preservatives. Look for shampoos with soothing components such as aloe vera, chamomile, panthenol.

2.2 Hair washing technique: how to cleanse the scalp correctly

The correct technique of washing the hair is no less important than the choice of shampoo.

1. Thoroughly moisten your hair with warm water. Water should be a comfortable temperature, not too hot so as not to dry the hair and scalp.
2. Apply a small amount of shampoo in the palm of your hand. Pull the shampoo in the palms to form foam.
3. Apply foam to the scalp and gently massage it with your fingertips. Do not use nails so as not to damage the scalp. Massage the scalp in a circular motion for 2-3 minutes.
4. Distribute the foam along the entire length of the hair. Do not try your hair too much so as not to damage it.
5. Rinse the shampoo thoroughly with warm water. Make sure that there are no traces of shampoo left on the hair.
6. Repeat the procedure if necessary. If the hair is very dirty, you can repeat washing. Usually one washing is enough.
7. Gently squeeze your hair from excess water. Do not try your hair with a towel so as not to damage it.
8. Apply air conditioning or hair mask.

2.3 air conditioners and masks: moisturizing and nutrition

Air conditioners and masks are important stages of hair care that help to moisturize, nourish and protect the hair from damage.

• Air conditioner: It is applied after each washing with shampoo. It helps to smooth the cuticle of hair, facilitates combing, gives shine and protects against damage. Apply the air conditioner to wet hair, retreating from the roots a few centimeters, leave for 2-3 minutes and rinse thoroughly.
• Hair mask: Used 1-2 times a week. The mask contains more concentrated ingredients than air conditioning and provides deeper moisturizing and hair nutrition. Apply the mask to wet hair, retreating from the roots, leave for 10-20 minutes (or according to the instructions on the package) and rinse thoroughly.

Choose air conditioners and masks in accordance with the type of your hair and their needs.

• For dry hair: Conditioners and masks with oils, glycerin, panthenol, honey.
• For damaged hair: Conditioners and masks with proteins, keratin, amino acids.
• For dyed hair: Air conditioners and masks that protect color and moisturize hair.
• For thin hair: Light air conditioners and masks that do not weight hair.
• For curly hair: Moisturizing and nutritious air conditioners and masks without silicones.

2.4 Hair combing: select the correct comb and technique

Proper combing of hair helps to avoid damage, brittleness and loss.

• Choose a comb according to the type of your hair.

  • For straight hair: Suitable combs with wide teeth, brushes with natural bristles.
  • For wavy and curly hair: Suitable with a comb with wide teeth, combing with rare teeth, special combs for curly hair.
  • For thin hair: Suitable soft brushes with natural bristles, a comb with rare teeth.
  • For thick hair: Suitable combs with wide teeth, brushes with hard bristles.

• Comb the hair only when it is dry or slightly wet. Wet hair is more vulnerable and easily break.

• Start combing your hair from the tips, gradually moving to the roots. This will help to avoid the formation of nodes and reduce the risk of hair damage.

• Comb the hair carefully, do not twitch and do not pull it.

• Use special tools to facilitate combing (sprays, oils).

2.5 hair styling: protection against thermal exposure and the choice of styling tools

Hair styling using thermal tools (hair dryer, ironing, curling iron) can damage the hair, making it dry, brittle and dull. Therefore, it is important to use thermal protection products and choose suitable tools for styling.

• Thermal protection products: Apply to the hair before using thermal tools. They create a protective barrier that prevents overheating and hair damage.

• Choose thermal protection products in accordance with the type of your hair.

  • For thin hair: Light sprays and lotions.
  • For dry hair: Creams and oils.
  • For curly hair: Mussa and gels.

• Styling products: Used to give the hair forms and fix the styling.

  • Hair varnish: Provides strong fixation of styling.
  • Mousse for hair: Gives volume and fixation.
  • Hair gel: Gives shape and shine.
  • Hair wax: Allows you to create a texture and divide the strands.
  • Hair cream: Moisturizes the hair and gives it smoothness.

• Choose styling products in accordance with the type of your hair and the desired result. Avoid a high alcohol content that can dry your hair.

2.6 hair dyeing: the choice of paint and care after the procedure

Hair dyeing is a chemical process that can damage hair. Therefore, it is important to choose high -quality paint and properly care for the hair after the procedure.

• Choose paint according to the type of your hair and the desired result.

  • Persistent paints: Provide a long result and paint over gray hair well.
  • Half -resistant paints: Less harmful to hair, but do not last long.
  • Tinted shampoos and balms: They give the hair a slight shade and easily washed off.

• Carry out an allergy test before staining.

• Follow the instructions on the packaging of paint.

• Do not overexporate the paint on your hair.

• Use special shampoos and air conditioners for dyed hair.

• Avoid frequent shaking after dyeing.

• Protect the hair from the sun.

• Cut the ends of the hair regularly.

2.7 Sun, wind and frost hair protection

The sun, wind and frost can negatively affect the health of the hair, making it dry, brittle and dull.

• Sun: Ultraviolet radiation damages the hair cuticle, the color fades and makes it brittle. Use hair products with SPF, wear hats and scarves in sunny weather.
• Wind: The wind dries the hair and promotes the formation of nodes. Collect your hair in a hairstyle or braid in windy weather.
• Frost: Frost dries the hair and makes it brittle. Wear a hat in cold weather.

2.8 Home Hair care products: masks, rinsing

Natural ingredients can be effective for hair care.

• Hair masks:

  • Oil masks: Moisturize and nourish hair (olive, coconut, argan oil).
  • Honey masks: Moisturize and give shine to the hair.
  • Egg masks: Strengthen hair and stimulate their growth.
  • Kefir masks: Moisturize and strengthen the hair.

• Hair rinsing:

  • Rinsing vinegar: Gives shine to the hair and helps to get rid of shampoo residues.
  • Rinsing with herbs (chamomile, nettles, sage): Strengthen the hair and soothe the scalp.

Part 3: Hair problems and their solutions

3.1 hair loss (alopecia): causes, types, treatment

Hair loss is a common problem that can be caused by various factors. It is important to identify the cause of the loss and begin treatment as early as possible.

• Causes of hair loss:

  • Genetic predisposition (androgenetic alopecia): The most common cause of hair loss in men and women.
  • Hormonal changes: Pregnancy, childbirth, menopause, thyroid disease.
  • Stress (heterogene alopecia): Strong stress can lead to temporary hair loss.
  • Disadvantage of nutrients: Deficiency of iron, zinc, vitamins of group B.
  • Scalp diseases: Seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, fungal infections.
  • Medications: Some drugs can cause hair loss.
  • Autoimmune diseases (focal alopecia): The immune system attacks hair follicles.
  • Head injuries: Scars on the scalp can interfere with hair growth.
  • Tight hairstyles: Constant hair tension can lead to traction alopecia.

• Types of hair loss:

  • Andogenetic alopecia: The gradual thinning of the hair usually begins with the hair growth line in men and from the crown of women.
  • Telegnum alopecia: Sudden loss of a large amount of hair.
  • Focal alopecia: Hair loss in the form of separate foci.
  • Traction alopecia: Hair loss due to constant tension.
  • Rickeeper alopecia: Hair loss due to scars on the scalp.

• Hair loss treatment:

  • Minoxidil: Stimulates hair growth with androgenetic alopecia.
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