hair and nails

Part 1: fundamental aspects of hair

1.1 Anatomy and hair physiology

Hair is a filamentary subordinate skin, consisting mainly of keratin, durable protein, also components of the nails and the outer layer of the skin. Each hair originates in a hairy follicle located in a dermis, a layer of skin under the epidermis.

1.1.1 The structure of the hair follicle: The follicle is a complex education, including:

• Hair onion (Bulb): The lower part of the follicle containing a dermal papilla, rich in blood vessels, providing nutrition for hair growth. Bulbs are actively divided, forming new hair cells.
• Dermal papilla (Dermal Papilla): The most important element that regulates the growth, cycle and size of the hair. Contains capillaries and nerve endings that transmit signals and nutrients. Damage or decrease in dermal papilla can lead to thinning and hair loss.
• Hair vagina (Root Sheath): Surrounds the hair onion and consists of an internal and outer root vagina. The internal root vagina helps to form and direct the growing hair, and the outer root vagina connects to the epidermis.
• Sebaceous iron (sebaceous gland): Located next to the follicle and emits skin lard (sebum), an oily substance that lubricates the hair and skin, preventing their drying.
• Arrector pili muscle): A small muscle attached to the follicle. Its contraction causes “goose skin” and lifts the hair, increasing the layer of air around the skin to maintain heat.

1.1.2 The structure of the hair (hair rod): Part of the hair, visible above the surface of the skin, consists of three main layers:

• Cuticle (Cuticle): The outer protective layer consisting of overlapping keratin scales similar to tiles. The cuticle is responsible for the shine and smoothness of the hair. Damage to the cuticle caused by chemical processing, thermal effects or mechanical damage leads to dullness, brittleness and split ends.
• Cortex (Cortex): The thickest layer that makes up the bulk of the hair. Contains keratin fibers fastened together and melanin pigment, which determines the color of the hair. Cortex is responsible for strength, elasticity and hair texture.
• Medulla (Medulla): The central layer, which is not in all hair (especially in thin hair, may not be). It consists of loose cells and air cavities. The function of the medulla is not fully studied.

1.1.3 Hair growth cycle: Hair growth occurs cyclically and consists of three main phases:

• Anagen (Anagen) – Growth phase: It lasts from 2 to 7 years and determines the length of the hair. In this phase, the cells of the hair follicles are actively divided, forming new hair cells. Genetic factors and nutrition affect the duration of anagen.
• Catagen (Catagen) – transition phase: It lasts about 2-3 weeks. Hair growth stops, and the hair follicle is reduced. The hair is separated from the dermal papilla.
• Telogen (Telogen) – phase of rest: It lasts about 3 months. The hair remains in the follicle, but does not grow. At the end of this phase, the old hair falls out, and an anagen cycle begins.

Normally, about 90% of the hair are in the anagen phase, 1% in the catagen phase and 9% in the bodyogen phase. Violation of this balance can lead to hair loss.

1.2 hair types:

The type of hair is determined by many factors, including genetics, ethnicity, hormonal background and lifestyle. The main characteristics that determine the type of hair are:

• Structure: Straight, wavy, curly, very curly. The angle of inclination of the follicle in the skin determines the degree of curling.
• Thickness: Thin, medium, thick. Hair thickness affects its strength and volume.
• Fat: Dry, normal, fat, combined. The oily hair depends on the activity of the sebaceous glands.
• Porosity: Low, medium, high. The porosity determines the ability of the hair to absorb and retain moisture.

1.2.1 straight hair: They have a smooth structure and reflect the light well, giving them shine. Easily combed, but can quickly become fat at the roots.

1.2.2 wavy hair: They have a S-shaped shape. More prone to dryness than straight hair, and require moisturizing. Easy to lay down.

1.2.3 Curly hair: They have more pronounced curls. Very prone to dryness and brittleness, require special care and moisture.

1.2.4 Very curly hair (Afro-texture): They have the smallest and dense curls. Extremely dry and brittle, require careful handling and abundant moisture.

1.3 Factors affecting hair health:

Hair health is a reflection of the general condition of the body. Many factors can affect the growth, strength and appearance of the hair:

• Genetics: Heredity plays an important role in determining the type of hair, their thickness, color and a tendency to loss.
• Nutrition: The lack of nutrients, such as protein, iron, zinc, vitamins of group B and omega-3 fatty acids, can lead to a slowdown in hair growth, their thinning and loss.
• Hormones: Hormonal changes associated with pregnancy, menopause, thyroid diseases and taking hormonal drugs can significantly affect the growth and loss of hair.
• Stress: Chronic stress can cause bodyogenic hair loss (Telogen Effluvium), a condition in which a larger amount of hair than usual goes into the heterogene phase (rest) and falls out.
• Diseases: Some diseases, such as anemia, thyroid diseases, autoimmune diseases and skin diseases, can cause hair loss.
• Medicines: Some drugs, such as chemotherapeutic agents, antidepressants, anticoagulants and anticonvulsants, can cause hair loss.
• Hair care: Aggressive styling methods, frequent use of a hairdryer, ironing and curling forceps, chemical curling and dyeing can damage the hair and lead to their fragility and loss.
• Age: With age, the hair becomes thinner, dry and more prone to loss. Melanin, which is responsible for hair color, decreases, which leads to the appearance of gray hair.
• Environmental factors: Environmental pollution, ultraviolet radiation and hard water can damage the hair.

1.4 Hair problems and their solutions:

• Hair loss (alopecia): There are many types of alopecia, including androgenic alopecia (hereditary hair loss), focal alopecia (an autoimmune disease that causes hair loss in individual areas), bodyogenic hair loss (caused by stress or other factors) and traction alopecia (caused by tight hairstyles). Treatment depends on the cause of hair loss and may include drugs (minoxidil, finsterida), laser therapy, hair transplant and other methods.
• Dandruff (seborrheic dermatitis): It is caused by the malassezia globosa fungus and is characterized by peeling of the scalp, itching and redness. Treatment includes the use of shampoos with antifungal components (ketoconazole, zinc pyrithion, selenium sulfide).
• Serving tips: Arise as a result of damage to the hair cuticle. The best solution is a regular haircut. To prevent split ends, it is recommended to use moisturizing and restoring hair products, avoid thermal exposure and aggressive chemical procedures.
• Brighten hair: It can be caused by a lack of moisture, damage to the cuticle, chemical treatment and thermal effects. It is recommended to use moisturizing and nutrient masks for hair, avoid frequent use of a hair dryer, ironing and curling forceps.
• Hair fatness: It is caused by excess activity of the sebaceous glands. It is recommended to use shampoos for oily hair, avoid frequent shampoo and use of products that weight hair.
• Dry hair: It is caused by a lack of moisture. It is recommended to use moisturizing shampoos and air conditioners, hair masks, to avoid frequent wash of the head and use of a hairdryer.
• Gray hair: The natural aging process associated with a decrease in the amount of melanin in the hair. There is no way to completely prevent gray hair. Hair dyeing is the most common way to hide gray hair.

Part 2: Detailed Hair Care Guidance

2.1 selection of hair care products:

The choice of hair care products should be based on the type of hair, their condition and individual needs.

• Shampoo: Designed for cleansing the hair and scalp from pollution, surplus sebum and remnants of the laundress. It is important to choose a shampoo corresponding to the type of hair (for oily, dry, normal, dyed, damaged hair, etc.). Sulfate shampoos (SLS and Sles) gently cleanse the hair and scalp, but can foam worse.
• Air conditioner: Designed for moisturizing, softening and smoothing hair. It is applied after shampoo on wet hair, retreating from the roots. Air conditioners contain ingredients that neutralize a negative charge of hair, making them more smooth and obedient.
• Hair mask: A more intense hair care product than air conditioning. It contains a higher concentration of nutrients and is designed for deep moisture, restoration and strengthening of hair. Used 1-2 times a week.
• Hair oil: Designed for nutrition, moisturizing and protecting hair from damage. You can use for the ends of the hair to prevent split ends, or apply to the entire length of the hair as a mask. Popular hair oils: argan, coconut, jojoba oil, olive oil.
• Hair serum: Contains a high concentration of active ingredients and is designed to solve specific problems, such as hair loss, brittleness, dryness or dullness.
• Hair styling products: Include mousses, gels, varnishes, waxes and hair creams. It is important to choose styling tools that do not contain alcohol and other aggressive ingredients that can dry and damage the hair.
• Hair sunscreen: Protect hair from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, which can cause color fabric, dryness and brittleness.

2.2 Correct hair washing:

• Washing frequency: Depends on the type of hair and the activity of the sebaceous glands. Bold hair can be washed every day, dry hair-2-3 times a week. It is important not to dry your hair with frequent washing.
• Water temperature: Hot water can overdose hair and scalp. It is recommended to use warm water.
• Shampoo application: Shampoo should only be applied to the scalp, massaging the fingertips. No need to rub the hair along the entire length, as it can damage it.
• Washing shampoo: Shampoo must be thoroughly washed off the hair so that there are no traces.
• Application of air conditioning: Air conditioning should be applied to wet hair, retreating from the roots. Leave for 2-3 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.
• Hair drying: It is best to dry your hair in a natural way. If you need to use a hairdryer, use low temperature and nozzle-disengage. Avoid hair friction with a towel, as this can damage them.

2.3 Care for different types of hair:

• Bold hair care: Use oily hair shampoos, avoid frequent shampooing, use dry shampoo to refresh hair between washing. Avoid the use of oils and other hair remedies.
• Dry hair care: Use moisturizing shampoos and air conditioners, hair masks, hair oils. Avoid frequent shaking, using a hairdryer and ironing. Use indelible air conditioners and serum to moisturize hair during the day.
• Caring for thin hair: Use shampoos and air conditioners that give volume. Avoid the use of means of weighting hair. Use mousses and varnishes for hair of light fixation to give your hair volume.
• Caring for thick hair: Use moisturizing and nutrient hair products. Thick hair, as a rule, is prone to dryness and require additional moisture. Use hair oils to give your hair shine and smoothness.
• Caring for dyed hair: Use shampoos and conditioners for dyed hair. These products contain ingredients that protect the hair color from leaching. Use hair masks to restore damaged hair after dyeing.
• Curly hair care: Use moisturizing shampoos and air conditioners, hair masks for curly hair. Avoid the frequent shabby of the hair and the use of the hair dryer. Use means to lay curly hair that helps to form curls and prevent fluffiness. The Curly Girl Method method is a popular method of caring for curly hair, which involves the use of only natural means and the avoidance of sulfates, silicones and alcohol.

2.4 Home hair masks:

Hair masks are a simple and affordable way to improve hair condition.

• Coconut oil mask: Moisturizes and nourishes hair, gives it shine and smoothness. Apply coconut oil to dry hair, leave for 30 minutes, then rinse with shampoo.
• Olive oil mask: Moisturizes and nourishes hair, strengthens the hair follicles. Apply olive oil to dry hair, leave for 30 minutes, then rinse with shampoo.
• Mask from honey and olive oil: Moisturizes and nourishes hair, gives it shine and smoothness. Mix honey and olive oil in equal proportions, apply to dry hair, leave for 30 minutes, then rinse with shampoo.
• Avocado mask and olive oil: Moisturizes and nourishes hair, restores damaged hair. Mix avocado and olive oil in equal proportions, apply to dry hair, leave for 30 minutes, then rinse with shampoo.
• Mask made of eggs and olive oil: Strengthens hair, gives it shine and volume. Mix the egg and olive oil in equal proportions, apply to dry hair, leave for 30 minutes, then rinse with shampoo.
• Mask from yogurt and honey: Moisturizes and nourishes hair, gives it shine and smoothness. Mix yogurt and honey in equal proportions, apply to dry hair, leave for 30 minutes, then rinse with shampoo.

2.5 Nutrition for hair health:

Healthy nutrition is the basis for hair health.

• Protein: Hair consists mainly of keratin, protein. Sufficient protein consumption is necessary for the growth and strengthening of hair. Sources of protein: meat, fish, eggs, dairy products, legumes, nuts and seeds.
• Iron: The lack of iron can lead to hair loss. Iron sources: red meat, liver, spinach, legumes.
• Zinc: The lack of zinc can lead to hair loss and dry scalp. Sources of zinc: oysters, red meat, poultry, nuts and seeds.
• B vitamins B: B vitamins are necessary for the growth and health of hair. Vitamin B7 (biotin) is especially important for strengthening hair. Sources of B vitamins B: meat, fish, eggs, dairy products, whole grain products, vegetables and fruits.
• Omega-3 fatty acids: Omega-3 fatty acids are necessary for the health of the scalp and hair. Sources of omega-3 fatty acids: fatty fish (salmon, mackerel, sardines), linen seeds, walnuts.
• Vitamin C: Vitamin C is necessary for the production of collagen, which strengthens the hair follicles. Sources of vitamin C: citrus fruits, berries, kiwi, pepper.
• Vitamin E: Vitamin E is an antioxidant that protects the hair from damage. Sources of vitamin E: nuts, seeds, vegetable oils.

2.6 Hair styling tips:

• Use thermal protection products: Before using a hairdryer, ironing or curling forceps, it is necessary to apply a heat protection product that protects the hair from damage.
• Avoid tight hairstyles: Tight hairstyles, such as tails and braids, can cause traction alopecia (hair loss caused by tension).
• Do not comb your wet hair: Wet hair is more vulnerable and easily break. Comb the hair only after it dries. Use a comb with wide teeth to untie the hair.
• Regularly cut the ends of the hair: Regular haircut of the ends of the hair helps to prevent split ends and keep your hair healthy.
• Protect the hair from the sun: Ultraviolet radiation can damage the hair. Use sun -wields for hair or wear a hat or scarf to protect the hair from the sun.
• Avoid frequent staining and chemical curls: Coloring and chemical curls can damage the hair. If you dye your hair, use non -zammic paints and take breaks between staining.

Part 3: Fundamental aspects of the nails

3.1 Anatomy and nail physiology

Nails are hard horn plates on the dorsal surface of the tips of the fingers and legs. They protect the fingertips from damage and help in the capture of small objects. Like hair, nails consist mainly of keratin.

3.1.1 nail structure:

• Nail plate: The visible part of the nail consisting of tightly packed keratin cells. It grows from the nail bed.
• Nail Bed: The skin under the nail plate, to which it fit tightly. Contains blood vessels that give the nails a pinkish tint.
• Nail matrix (Nail Matrix): Located under a proximal nail fold and is a nail growth zone. Contains cells that are divided and form new cells of the nail plate. Damage to the matrix can lead to deformation of the nail or the cessation of its growth.
• Punched (Lunula): White semi -moon area at the base of the nail. This is the visible part of the nail matrix. It is more noticeable on the thumbs.
• Nail rollers (Nail folds): The skin surrounding the nail plate on three sides.
• Cuticle (Cuticle): A thin layer of skin, which grows on the nail plate at the base of the nail. Protects the nail matrix from infections.
• Hyponichia (Hyponychium): The skin under the free edge of the nail. Protects the nail bed from infections.
• Free edge of the nail (free edge): Part of the nail plate that goes beyond the tip of the finger.

3.1.2 Nail growth:

Nails grow continuously from the matrix of the nail. Matrix cells are divided and pushing old cells forward, forming a nail plate. The growth rate of nails depends on many factors, including age, nutrition, health and injuries. On average, the nails on the hands grow approximately 3 mm per month, and the nails on the legs are slower, about 1 mm per month. Nails on the dominant hand grow faster. The full update of the nail plate takes about 6 months for the hands and 12-18 months for the legs.

3.2 Factors affecting the health of the nails:

• Nutrition: The lack of nutrients, such as protein, iron, zinc, vitamins of group B and calcium, can lead to brittleness, thinning and nail deformation.
• Age: With age, the nails become thinner, dry and more brittle. The growth rate of nails slows down.
• Humidity: Too frequent hand washing and the effects of aggressive detergents can dry the nails and make them brittle.
• Injuries: Nail injuries can lead to deformation of the nail plate and a slowdown in nail growth.
• Infections: Fungal and bacterial infections can affect nails, causing a change in color, thickness and shape of the nails.
• Diseases: Some diseases, such as psoriasis, eczema and thyroid disease, can affect the condition of the nails.
• Medicines: Some drugs, such as chemotherapeutic agents, can cause changes in the growth and appearance of nails.
• Nail care: Aggressive methods of nail care, such as frequent use of acetone, nail extension and gel coating, can damage the nails and make them brittle.

3.3 problems with nails and their solutions:

• Browneness of nails (onhoshisis): It can be caused by a lack of moisture, injuries, exposure to aggressive detergents, as well as a deficiency of vitamins and minerals. It is recommended to use moisturizers for hands and nails, wear gloves when working with water and chemicals, take vitamin-mineral complexes.
• Cracking nails (onihorexis): It is characterized by the appearance of longitudinal cracks on the nail plate. The reasons can be the same as with fragility of nails. It is recommended to avoid nail injuries, use moisturizing agents and polish the nails to smooth out irregularities.
• White spots on the nails (leikonichia): It can be caused by injuries, a lack of zinc or calcium. In most cases, white spots on the nails are not a sign of a serious disease and pass on their own.
• Changing the color of the nails: It can be caused by a fungal infection, psoriasis, medication or other factors. Yellow nails often indicate a fungal infection. Blue nails can be a sign of a lack of oxygen in the blood. Brown nails can be caused by taking some drugs or using dark colors. In the case of changing the color of the nails, consult a doctor to establish the cause and prescribe treatment.
• Involved nail (onychocryptosis): It occurs when the edge of the nail grows into the skin. It can be caused by improper cutting nails, wearing tight shoes or injuries. In mild cases, you can cope with the ingrown fingernail yourself, cutting the nail straight and making warm baths for the legs. In more serious cases, you must consult a doctor.
• Thickening of nails (onychogrifosis): It is characterized by a thickening and deformation of the nail plate. Often occurs in the elderly and can be caused by injuries, fungal infection or vascular diseases. Treatment includes regular haircut and grinding of nails. In some cases, it may be required to remove the nail plate.
• Nail fungal infection (onychomycosis): It is caused by fungi that affect the nail plate and the nail bed. Symptoms include a change in color, thickness and shape of nails, brittleness and nail exfoliation. Treatment includes the use of antifungal drugs, both local (ointments, varnishes) and system (tablets). Treatment of fungal nail infection can be long and occupy for several months.
• Nail psoriasis: It can cause various changes in the nails, such as point recesses (thimble symptom), thickening, stratification and changes in the color of the nails. Treatment of nail psoriasis includes the use of local corticosteroids and other drugs.

Part 4: Practical Nail Care Guidance

4.1 Proper nail haircut:

• Use sharp nippers or scissors: Dumb tools can tear and damage nails.
• String your nails straight: Do not round the corners of the nails, as this can lead to a fingernail.
• Do not cut your nails too short: Leave a small free edge of the nail.
• Sprinkle your nails: Sprinkle your nails after a haircut to smooth out the sharp edges and give them a shape.
• String your nails after a bath or shower: Nails become softer after water, which facilitates the haircut.

4.2 Care for Cottable:

• Do not cut the cuticle: The cuticle protects the nail matrix from infections. Cutting of the cuticle can lead to inflammation and damage to the nail matrix.
• Put on the cuticle: After a bath or shower, carefully push the cuticle with a wooden stick or a cutter for a cuticle.
• Moisten the cuticle: Apply oil for cuticle or hand cream to the cuticle several times a day.

4.3 Care for the nails on the legs:

Failure care on the legs is similar to leaving nails on the hands. It is important to regularly cut the legs on the legs to prevent a nail. It is recommended to wear comfortable shoes that do not squeeze the toes.

4.4 Manicure and pedicure:

• Manicure: The procedure for caring for nails on the hands, including a haircut, cutting, polishing, caring for a cuticle and applying varnish.
• Pedicure: The procedure for caring for nails on the legs, including haircuts, cutting, polishing, caring for cuticle, removal of corns and corns, as well as applying varnish.
• Choose qualified masters: If you are doing manicure or pedicure in the cabin, choose qualified masters who observe hygiene rules.
• Do not use general tools: Make sure that the tools used for manicure or pedicure are sterilized.
• Do not make nail extensions and gel coating too often: These procedures can damage the nails.

4.5 Home remedies for strengthening nails:

• Baths with sea salt: Dissolve sea salt in warm water and lower your hands into it for 15-20 minutes. Sea salt strengthens the nails and promotes their growth.
• Olive oil baths: Heat olive oil and lower your hands into it for 15-20 minutes. Olive oil moisturizes and nourishes nails.
• Mask made of lemon juice and olive oil: Mix lemon juice and olive oil in equal proportions and apply to the nails for 15-20 minutes. Lemon juice whiten nails, and olive oil moisturizes and nourishes.
• Rubbing vitamin e in toe: Rub vitamin E into the nails and cuticle several times a day. Vitamin E strengthens the nails and promotes their growth.

4.6 Nutrition for nail health:

Healthy nutrition is the basis for the health of nails.

• Protein: Nails consist of keratin, protein. Sufficient protein consumption is necessary for the growth and strengthening of nails. Sources of protein: meat, fish, eggs, dairy products, legumes, nuts and seeds.
• Iron: The lack of iron can lead to brittleness and thinning of the nails. Iron sources: red meat, liver, spinach, legumes.
• Zinc: The lack of zinc can lead to the appearance of white spots on the nails. Sources of zinc: oysters, red meat, poultry, nuts and seeds.
• B vitamins B: B vitamins are necessary for the growth and health of nails. Biotin (vitamin B7) is especially important for strengthening nails. Sources of B vitamins B: meat, fish, eggs, dairy products, whole grain products, vegetables and fruits.
• Calcium: Calcium is necessary to strengthen nails. Sources of calcium: dairy products, green vegetables.
• Vitamin C: Vitamin C is necessary for the production of collagen, which strengthens the nails. Sources of vitamin C: citrus fruits, berries, kiwi, pepper.

4.7 Nail protection tips:

• Wear gloves when working with water and chemicals: Detergents, solvents and other chemicals can dry and damage nails.
• Avoid nail injuries: Be careful not to damage your nails.
• Do not bite your nails: Nail biting can damage the nail plate and lead to infection.
• Give the nails a break from the varnish: Do not wear varnish constantly. Give the nails a break so that they can breathe and recover.
• Use the base for varnish: The base for varnish protects the nails from staining and prevents their brittleness.
• Do not use acetone to remove varnish: Acetone dries and damages the nails. Use a remedy for removing varnish without acetone.

Part 5: Hair and nail communication: interaction and systematic approach

5.1 General factors affecting the health of hair and nails:

The health of hair and nails is closely connected, since both consist mainly of keratin and are affected by similar factors. A systematic approach to health involves taking into account these relationships.

• Nutrition: As mentioned earlier, protein deficiency