hair and nails

Hair and nails: mirror of inner health and an indicator of external beauty

I. Anatomy and physiology of hair:

Hair is skin appendages, consisting mainly of keratin, durable fibrillar protein. They play an important role in thermoregulation, protecting the skin from solar radiation and, of course, aesthetics. Understanding the structure of the hair is necessary for proper care of them and identifying possible problems.

A. Hair structure:

1. Hair follicle: This is a recess in the skin where the hair is formed. It consists of:

   • Hair onion: The expanded base of the follicle containing matrix cells, which are actively divided and forming hair. In the bulb is also a hair papilla, rich in blood vessels that provide power to the growing hair.
   • External epithelial vagina (NRV): Continuation of the epidermis surrounding follicle.
   • Inner epithelial vagina (VRV): It consists of three layers surrounding the root of the hair and providing its support and shape.
   • Sebaceous glands: They are located at the follicle and selected sebum (sebum), which lubricates and protects the hair and scalp.
   • Hair lifting (Arrector pili): It is attached to the follicle and causes lift of the hair (“goose skin”) with cold or fear.

2. Hair rod: The visible part of the hair protruding above the surface of the skin. Consists of three layers:

   • Cuticle: The outer layer consisting of overlapping keratin scales, like a tile on the roof. The cuticle protects the inner layers of the hair from damage. The gloss and smoothness of the hair depends on the condition of the cuticle.
   • Cortex (bark): The thickest layer that makes up the bulk of the hair. Contains a melanin pigment that determines the color of the hair, as well as protein fibers that provide strength and elasticity.
   • Medulla (core): The central layer, which is not in all hair (often in thick and dark hair). The function of the medulla has not been fully studied, but it is supposed to affect the thermal insulation and strength of the hair.

B. The chemical composition of the hair:

Hair consists mainly of:

• Keratin: About 65-95% of dry hair. Keratin is a fibrillar protein rich in amino acid cysteine ​​containing sulfur. Disulfide bonds between cysteine ​​molecules provide the strength and structure of the hair.
• Water: 10-15%. The content of water affects the elasticity and flexibility of the hair.
• Lipids: 3-6%. Provide hydrophobic and shine of hair.
• Pigments (melanin): Determine the color of the hair. Eumlanin is responsible for dark shades (black and brown), Feomalanin – for light shades (red and blond).
• Microelements: Iron, zinc, copper, silicon and others. They play an important role in the growth and health of the hair.

C. Hair growth cycle:

Hair grows cyclically, passing through three phases:

1. Anagen (growth phase): Duration from 2 to 7 years. In this phase, matrix cells are actively divided, forming new hair. About 85-90% of the hair on the head are in the anagen phase.
2. Katagen (recression phase): Duration is about 2-3 weeks. Hair growth slows down, the hair follicle is reduced in size and separates from the hair papilla.
3. Telogen (Phase Salm): Duration is about 3 months. The hair stops growing and remains in the follicle. At the end of the hebogene phase, the hair falls out, and in its place the new hair in the anagen phase begins to grow.

D. Types of hair:

The type of hair is determined by the amount of sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands, as well as the hair structure. The main types of hair:

• Normal hair: Balanced secretion of sebum, brilliant, elastic hair and easily combed.
• Dry hair: The insufficient secretion of skin fat, the hair is dull, brittle, we split on the ends and is difficult to comb.
• Bold hair: Excessive secretion of sebum, hair quickly becomes oily, stick together and look untidy.
• Combined hair: Fat at the roots and dry at the ends.

The hair is also classified according to the degree of wavyness: straight, wavy, curly and African.

II. Anatomy and physiology of nails:

Nails, like hair, are ledges of the skin and consist mainly of keratin. They perform a protective function for the tips of the fingers and legs, and also participate in fine motor skills. Nail health is an important indicator of the general condition of the body.

A. The structure of the nail:

1. Nail plate: A hard, visible part of the nail. Consists of tightly packed keratin cells.
2. Nail bed: The skin under the nail plate. Contains blood vessels and nerve endings.
3. Matrix: The area under the rear nail roller, where the cells of the nail plate are formed. The thickness, shape and quality of the nail depends on the state of the matrix.
4. Nail roller: The skin surrounding the nail plate on three sides.
5. Cuticle: A thin layer of skin covering part of the nail plate at the base. Protects matrix from infections and damage.
6. Lunked: White semi -moon area at the base of the nail. This is the visible part of the matrix.
7. Free land: Part of the nail plate protruding the tip of the finger.

B. The chemical composition of the nail:

Nails consist mainly of:

• Keratin: About 90% of the dry weight of the nail. Keratin in nails is more solid than in the hair, due to the greater sulfur content.
• Water: 7-12%. The water content affects the flexibility and strength of the nail.
• Lipids: A small amount.
• Microelements: Calcium, zinc, iron and others. They play an important role in the growth and health of nails.

C. Nail growth:

Nails grow continuously, but slower than hair. The growth rate of nails depends on many factors, including age, health, nutrition and season. On average, the nails on the hands grow about 3 mm per month, and on the legs – about 1 mm per month. The full update of the nail plate on the hands takes about 6 months, and on the legs-about 12-18 months.

III. Factors affecting the health of hair and nails:

The condition of the hair and nails is a reflection of the overall health of the body. Many factors can affect their appearance, structure and growth rate.

A. Nutrition:

A balanced diet, rich in vitamins and minerals, is necessary for the health of hair and nails. The following nutrients are especially important:

• Protein: Keratin, the main structural component of hair and nails, consists of amino acids obtained from protein. The lack of protein can lead to thinning of the hair and fragility of nails. Sources of protein: meat, fish, eggs, legumes, nuts.
• Iron: It is necessary to transport oxygen to hair follicles and a matrix of the nail. Iron deficiency can lead to hair loss and spoon -like deformation of nails (coilonichia). Iron sources: red meat, liver, spinach, legumes.
• Zinc: It is important for the growth and division of cells, as well as for the synthesis of keratin. Zinc deficiency can cause hair loss, dry scalp and white spots on the nails (leakonichia). Sources of zinc: meat, seafood, nuts, seeds.
• Biotin (Vitamin B7): Participates in the metabolism of fats, proteins and carbohydrates necessary for hair growth and nails. Biotin deficiency can lead to hair loss and fragility of nails. Sources of biotin: eggs, liver, nuts, seeds, avocados.
• Vitamin C: It is necessary for the synthesis of collagen, which supports the structure of hair and nails. It is also an antioxidant that protects the cells from damage. Sources of vitamin C: citrus fruits, berries, pepper, broccoli.
• Vitamin D: Plays an important role in the regulation of hair and nail growth. Vitamin D deficiency can lead to hair loss. Sources of vitamin D: fatty fish, egg yolk, enriched products, sunlight.
• Omega-3 fatty acids: Moisturize the scalp and strengthen the hair, giving it shine. Sources of omega-3 fatty acids: fatty fish (salmon, tuna, mackerel), linen seed, chia, walnuts.
• Silicon: Participates in the synthesis of collagen and keratin, strengthening hair and nails. Silicon sources: cucumbers, pepper, onions, oats.

B. Hormonal background:

Hormones play an important role in the growth and health of hair and nails. Hormonal changes associated with pregnancy, birth, menopause, thyroid diseases and other endocrine disorders can significantly affect the condition of hair and nails.

• Androgens: Male sex hormones, such as testosterone, can cause hair loss by male type (androgenic alopecia) in men and women.
• Estrogens: Female sex hormones contribute to hair growth and strengthen nails. During pregnancy, when the estrogen level is high, the hair becomes thick and shiny, and the nails become strong. After childbirth, the level of estrogen falls, which can lead to hair loss and fragility of nails.
• Tireoid hormones: The hormones of the thyroid gland, regulate the metabolism and affect the growth of hair and nails. Hypothyroidism (lack of thyroid hormones) can lead to hair loss, dry scalp, fragility and slow growth of nails. Hyperthyroidism (excess hormones of the thyroid gland) can also cause hair loss.

C. Stress:

Chronic stress can have a negative effect on the health of hair and nails. Stress can lead to:

• Hair loss (heterogene alopecia): Stress can provoke a transition of a large number of hair follicles to the heterogene phase (dormant phase), which leads to abundant hair loss a few months after a stressful event.
• Trichotillomania: Compulsively pulling out hair.
• Those-out of: Compulsive nourishing of nails.
• Slowing down nail growth.
• The appearance of white spots on the nails (leikonichia).

D. Age:

With age, a natural decrease in the activity of hair follicles and matrix of the nail occurs, which leads to:

• Hair refinement: The diameter of the hair decreases, the hair becomes thinner and brittle.
• Hair bearing: A decrease in the production of melanin leads to the appearance of gray hair.
• Slow down of hair and nail growth.
• Fragility of nails: Nails become more dry and fragile.
• Changing the color of the nails: Nails can become yellowish or cloudy.

E. Medications and diseases:

Some drugs and diseases can affect the health of hair and nails:

• Chemotherapy: Causes hair loss (alopecia), which is usually reversible after the end of treatment.
• Anticoagulants: They can cause hemorrhages under the nail plate.
• Beta blockers: They can cause hair loss.
• Antidepressants: They can cause hair loss.
• Autoimmune diseases: Such as systemic lupus erythematosus, psoriasis and alopecia of the area, can cause various changes in the hair and nails.
• Fungal infections: They can affect nails (onychomycosis) and scalp (cutting lichen).
• Skin diseases: Such as eczema and dermatitis can affect the condition of the scalp and nail rollers.

F. External factors:

External factors, such as:

• Ultraviolet radiation (Sun): Damages the structure of hair and nails, causing dryness, brittleness and fragmentation.
• Chemical effect (dyeing, curling, hair straightening, nail extension): It can damage the structure of the hair and nails, making them weaker and brittle.
• Thermal exposure (hair dryer, iron, curling iron): Dry hair and makes it more vulnerable to damage.
• Mechanical exposure (tight hairstyles, combing wet hair, frequent wash of the head): It can lead to brittleness and hair loss.
• Incorrect care: The use of unsuitable shampoos, air conditioners and other hair and nails can aggravate problems.
• The effect of aggressive chemicals (household chemicals, detergents): It can damage the nails and skin of the hands.

IV. Hair diseases:

There are many diseases of the hair that can manifest by various symptoms, such as hair loss, a change in hair structure, itching and inflammation of the scalp.

A. Alopecia (hair loss):

Alopecia is a general term for indicating hair loss. There are various types of alopecia, with different causes and manifestations:

1. Androgenic alopecia (baldness by male type): The most common type of hair loss associated with the genetic predisposition and exposure to androgens (male sex hormones). In men, it manifests itself in the form of a recession of the hair growth line on the forehead and thinning of the hair on the crown. In women, it manifests itself in the form of uniformly thinning hair on the crown.
2. Telegnum alopecia: Temporary hair loss caused by stress, illness, pregnancy, medication or other factors that violate the normal hair growth cycle.
3. Alopecia of the Areat (focal alopecia): Autoimmune disease in which the immune system attacks the hair follicles, causing hair loss in the form of round or oval foci.
4. Rickeeper alopecia: Hair loss associated with the formation of scar tissue on the scalp, which leads to irreversible damage to the hair follicles. The causes of cicatricial alopecia can be different: infections, injuries, inflammatory diseases.
5. Traction alopecia: Hair loss caused by constant hair tension, for example, when wearing tight hairstyles (braids, tails, dreadlocks).

B. Seborrheic dermatitis:

Chronic inflammatory disease of the scalp, associated with excessive secretion of sebum and breeding of the malassezia fungus. It manifests itself in the form of redness, itching and peeling of the scalp, as well as the formation of oily scales (dandruff).

C. Psoriasis of the scalp:

Chronic autoimmune skin disease that can affect the scalp. It manifests itself in the form of red, peeling plaques covered with silver scales. Psoriasis of the scalp can be accompanied by itching and discomfort.

D. Raggushi Lichen (Dermatophite):

The fungal scalp infection caused by dermatophytes. It is manifested in the form of round or oval foci of hair loss, accompanied by inflammation and peeling of the scalp. Strigerating lichen is contrast and can be transmitted from person to person or from animals to humans.

E. Trichoclazia:

The fragility of hair caused by various factors, such as chemical exposure, thermal effect, mechanical damage and lack of nutrients.

F. Trichoptilosis (split ends):

The breakdown of the ends of the hair caused by damage to the cuticle.

G. Hypertrichosis (excess hair growth):

Excess hair growth in atypical for this gender and age. It can be caused by genetic factors, hormonal disorders, medication or other causes.

H. Hirsatism:

Excessive hair growth in male type in women, for example, on the face, chest, abdomen. Often associated with hormonal disorders, such as polycystic ovary syndrome (PCA).

V. Diseases of the nails:

Nail diseases can be caused by various factors, such as infections, injuries, skin diseases and general health.

A. Onihomycosis (fungal nail infection):

The most common nail disease caused by dermatophytes, yeast or molds. It manifests itself in the form of changes in the color of the nail (yellow, white, brown), thickening of the nail plate, deformation of the nail and brittleness.

B. Paronichia:

Inflammation of the nail roller caused by a bacterial or fungal infection. It can be acute (caused by injury) or chronic (associated with constant contact with water or chemicals).

C. Onycholisis:

Removing the nail plate from the nail bed. It can be caused by injury, infection, psoriasis, an allergic reaction or medication.

D. Onihoshisis:

Spreading the nail plate, usually along the free edge. It can be caused by dryness, injury, chemical exposure or lack of nutrients.

E. leikonichia (white spots on the nails):

The appearance of white spots or strips on the nail plate. It can be caused by injury, a deficiency of zinc, allergies or other causes.

F. Koilonichia (spoon -like nails):

Deformation of the nail plate, in which the nail becomes concave as a spoon. Often associated with iron deficiency.

G. Line Bo (Bo-Rile Line):

Cross grooves on the nail plate. They can be caused by illness, injury, stress or medication that temporarily disrupt the growth of the nail.

H. Psoriasis of nails:

Psoriasis can affect the nails, causing various changes, such as holes on the nail plate, thickening of the nail, a change in the color of the nail and detachment of the nail.

I. Onychocryptosis (ingrown nail):

The growing of the nail plate in the soft tissues of the nail roller, causing pain, inflammation and infection. Most often found on the thumbs.

VI. Diagnosis of hair and nail diseases:

Diagnosis of hair and nail diseases requires a thorough examination and collection of an anamnesis. In some cases, additional studies may be required:

• Trichoscopy: Inspection of scalp and hair with a trichoscope (special microscope).
• Phototrichogramma: A method that allows you to assess the density of hair, the percentage of hair in different phases of growth and hair growth rate.
• Scalp biopsy: Taking a small scalp sample for microscopic examination.
• Microscopic examination of the nail plate: To detect a fungal infection.
• Blood test: To identify a deficiency of vitamins and minerals, hormonal disorders and other diseases that can affect the health of hair and nails.

VII. Hair care:

Proper hair care is an important aspect of maintaining their health and beauty.

A. Washing hair:

• Wash your hair as necessary, usually 2-3 times a week.
• Use shampoo suitable for hair type.
• Do not use too hot water.
• Rinse the hair thoroughly from shampoo.
• Use air conditioning after each soak to moisturize and smooth the hair.

B. Hair combing:

• Comb the hair with a soft brush or comb with wide teeth.
• Do not comb wet hair, as it is more vulnerable to damage.
• Start combing from the ends of the hair, gradually rising to the roots.

C. Hair drying:

• Avoid frequent use of a hairdryer, ironing and curling iron, as they dry and damage the hair.
• If you need to use a hair dryer, choose a mode with cool air and keep a hair dryer at a distance of at least 15 cm from the hair.
• Do not wipe your hair with a towel too roughly, it is better to neatly get it away.

D. Hair styling:

• Use styling products suitable for hair type.
• Avoid the use of tight hairstyles that can lead to traction alopecia.
• Protect hair from the sun using hats or hair products with SPF.

E. Hair masks:

• Regularly use hair masks to moisturize, nourish and restore hair.
• Hair masks can be purchased in a store or prepared independently from natural ingredients.

F. Hair haircut:

• Regularly cut the ends of the hair to prevent split ends.

VIII. Nail care:

Proper nail care helps to maintain their health and beauty.

A. Nail hygiene:

• Wash your hands regularly with soap.
• Cut the nails regularly, giving them a shape.
• Use a nail file to smooth out sharp edges.
• Avoid gnawing nails and burrs.

B. Moisturizing nails:

• Regularly moisturize your hands and nails with cream.
• Use the cuticle oil to soften and moisturize the cuticle.

C. nail protection:

• Wear gloves when working with household chemicals and other aggressive substances.
• Use the basic coating before applying nail polish to protect the nail plate from varnish pigments.
• Give nails to rest from varnish, taking breaks between application.

D. Manicure and pedicure:

• Make manicure and pedicure with a professional using sterile tools.
• Avoid too aggressive cutting of the cuticle.

IX. Modern methods of improving health and appearance of hair and nails:

Modern cosmetology offers a wide range of procedures to improve health and appearance of hair and nails:

A. For hair:

• Mesotherapy: The introduction of special cocktails with vitamins, minerals and amino acids into the scalp to stimulate hair growth and improve their condition.
• Plasmolifting: The introduction of a patient’s own plasma in the scalp, enriched with platelets, to stimulate tissue regeneration and hair growth.
• Laser therapy: The use of laser radiation to stimulate hair growth and improve blood circulation in the scalp.
• Hair transplant: The surgical procedure in which hair follicles are transplanted from the donor zone (usually the occipital region) to the baldness zone.
• Keratin straightening: The procedure in which the hair is applied to the hair with keratin, which smoothes and straightens the hair.
• Botox for hair: The procedure in which the hair is applied with botulinum toxin, which strengthens and restores damaged hair.
• Hair lamination: The procedure in which the hair is covered with a thin film that protects them from damage and gives them shine.

B. For nails:

• Strengthening nails with gel varnish: Application of gel varnish on the nails, which creates a strong and flexible coating that protects the nails from damage and promotes their growth.
• Nail extension: An increase in the length and thickness of the nails with a gel or acrylic.
• Ibx System: The system for restoring damaged nails, which penetrates the structure of the nail and strengthens it from the inside.
• Paraphinotherapy: The procedure in which arms or legs plunge into a warm paraffin, which moisturizes and softens the skin, and also strengthens the nails.

X. Folk remedies for hair care and nails:

Along with modern methods, there are many folk remedies for hair and nail care, which are tested by time:

A. For hair:

• Burdock oil: Strengthens hair, stimulates their growth, prevents hair loss.
• Castor oil: Strengthens hair, gives it shine, stimulates the growth of eyelashes and eyebrows.
• Coconut oil: Moisturizes the hair, protects it from damage, gives it shine.
• Egg yolk mask: It nourishes hair, gives it shine.
• Kefir mask: Moisturizes the hair, gives it shine.
• Nettle decoction: Strengthens hair, stimulates their growth, prevents hair loss.
• Chamomile decoction: It brightens the hair, gives it shine.

B. For nails:

• Lemon juice: Bloves his nails, strengthens them.
• Olive oil: Moisturizes nails, strengthens them.
• Sea salt: Strengthens the nails, prevents their brittleness.
• Baths with iodine: Strengthen the nails, prevent their delamination.

XI. Preventive measures:

It is much easier to prevent problems with hair and nails than treating them. Compliance with simple rules will help maintain their health and beauty:

• Balanced nutrition: Consume foods rich in protein, vitamins and minerals.
• Healthy lifestyle: Avoid stress, get enough sleep, play sports.
• Proper hair and nail care: Use suitable care products, protect hair and nails from damage.
• Timely seeking a doctor: When any problems with hair and nails appear, contact a dermatologist or trichologist for diagnosis and treatment.

Hair and nails are important elements of appearance that reflect the general condition of the body. Proper care, a balanced diet and a healthy lifestyle will help maintain their health and beauty for many years.